Surfing is a very complex sport. Below are some basics
that all surfers should know. This page is aimed at
beginners.
What
are Waves?
Waves are balls of energy that begin out at sea. Except
for tsunamis they are created by the wind. The frictional
drag of the wind creates ripples which then progress to
chop and with more energy from the wind, eventually turn
into swell. When the swells reach shallow water they
overbalance and break in the form of waves.
Your
First Surfboard
The trusty old surfboard is something that you will come
to treat better than most of your friends. The board is
the tool that you will carve your mark in the waves. As a
learner you will no doubt inflict much pain on your first
board so I advise you not to spend too much money. You
will probably want a board that is of medium length (too
short = unstable, too long = hard to manage) and not too
thin. The length will depend on your height and weight.
Remember: buy a surfboard that suits your ability.
Rips
A Rip is simply an escape for the water brought in by
breaking waves. Rips form in order to let the water that
is moving through the breaker zone return to sea. Rips
can be very dangerous, but if you know what you are doing
you can use them to your advantage. Remember: If you ever
get caught in a rip don't paddle or swim against it.
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